Monday, June 28, 2010

Please explain...


Clarky back at school?...
Not quite, but I'm sure much more rewarding.










So here’s one that I just haven’t worked out yet...
It’s a great experience and challenge trying to understand a different world, a different lifestyle, belief and values systems, filters on life etc – that’s surely one of the joys of travelling or living abroad. So whilst I can see plausible explanations (not necessarily logic, or at least not my version of it perhaps) behind many of the less subtle differences here like the constant horns in traffic for example, there a few I’m yet to get my head around.


Whoa, easy Tiger...


Mystery-thus-far number one - The queue jumper... I remember standing at a petrol station in Dubai in a queue waiting to buy whatever it was, standing about 3rd in queue, a very obvious and ordered British-style queue, when an Indian guy I knew wondered straight to the front trying to force the cashier to serve him before everyone else. Sure he had something ‘quick and easy’, but so did at least one of the others waiting patiently in line... for example a certain short-haired Aussie whom had become instantly furious with this apparent arrogant impertinence. So you can imagine my delight that I now have plenty of opportunity to explore this little quirk further. It’s not that I see every day, but I certainly see it quite frequently. For no apparent reason, someone of no apparent higher standing, caste, significance or importance of any sort (yes I’ve asked), bypasses the social etiquette and respect for your fellow man of the queue, wandering straight to the cashier demanding immediate attention without so much as a shrug of an apology. And not smugly. Not with any eye contact either. Almost as though that’s just what you should expect, or at least what they did. So the obvious questions...is the queue a habitual creature? Do those others waiting simply choose to ignore because they can’t be bothered? How come everyone doesn’t try to queue jump, and what would that look like?!
So for those of you more intelligent, worldly, travelled, sophisticated and clever than myself (let’s be honest we’re not setting a high bar here), by all means let me know – I’ll even shout the beers.

Other updates for you?
Clarky still good and busy – her list of activities now includes yoga, pilates, teaching slum kids, volunteering in a hospice and with a charity that creates sustainable incomes for women and villages, cooking lessons and of course the all-important social scene... Oh how the tides have turned, and yes I am jealous.
We’re still living in the serviced apartment, now three months in (don’t mention the war), and as ridiculous as it now sounds I’ll say again that we’re ‘hoping to move in this weekend’, or so we’ve been told again... the count on this is now five, without any exaggeration whatsoever, so you can imagine this is wearing a little thin. We’re onto our third driver, who appears thus far to be excellent – the last we’re pretty sure was doing business on the side in a car my work is paying for, consequently turning up late for ‘madam’ numerous times (never for ‘sir’ of course!), and despite several very clear instructions (yep, we’ve learned to be very simple and direct when needed) could not seem to manage not to answer his mobile phone, check messages etc whilst weaving and shoving and beeping through peak hour traffic. Two accidents (albeit minor accidents) was more than enough for madam!

Sunday, June 20, 2010

Mysore, an Indian Wedding & Srirangapatnam

Having worked a little more than we'd ideally like of late, we gladly took up an offer from one of my colleagues to attend his wedding in Mysore on Friday, also taking the opportunity to create a long weekend and experience some more of India outside of Bangalore.


Farming ye olde style - no problem when labour is cheap & abundant
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Whilst only about 140km away, it's a good 3 hour drive by road - at least. Having said that, it was great to get 'out of town' and experience a little more of India. So we headed off to the reception Thursday night and then the ceremony Friday morning.


Mysore, known for it's silk, incense and sandalwood amongst other things, was the city of choice for the Wodeyar maharajas, who pretty much ruled in various forms from about 1400 to 1947. Touring the palace below was the first opportunity we'd had to start to learn a little of the history, and it didn't disappoint. Great stories of empires, sub-empires, battles, wars and all the other good stuff that I won't bore you with here in these days of google and wikipedia.

Not a bad little house... if you're a maharaja of course


Making friends in the Palace grounds
Look closely..Peter Pan shoes & all....

Apparently there are literally hundreds of variations within Hindu weddings alone, but we were delighted to be able experience this one. I had asked around some friends and colleagues on what would be considered appropriate attire - "respectful but not over the top" I think I had suggested... and the result can be seen here.

The happy couples
Whilst I'm pleased to have made the effort we soon discovered that many other guests were in simple 'western' dress - anything from 'business casual' to jeans and a shirt. Having said that, it's not every day you get to buy a Sari and Shirvani and wear them with the best intent, so it kind of added to the fun and was, I'm think, received well. The wedding itself consisted of a great number of rituals and traditions taking place over a couple of hours - another work colleague gave us a bit of an insight into what was happening at some of the stages but I won't even attempt to recount in any detail.
Random shot from the streets of Mysore... how many school kids can you fit into one 'auto'?
Having looked around some of Mysore's great markets, we checked out Chamundi Hill and temple and then Brindavan Gardens, apparently a feature of many of Bollywoods best. Probably my favourite new spot of the weekend and one of the best little towns so far was Srirangapatnam - a town on an island in the river Cauvery with a load of history. Home to Hyder Ali and the great Tipu, it was pretty much the capital of Southern India for much of the 18th century, when Tipu in particular enjoyed a number of major victories over the British. The poms eventually managed to beat him, and he lays today within the town. Many of the old ramparts and gates of the old fort still stand - I love the fact that the majority of the town still stand within the walls of the old fort.